Y-3 - S/S 2016

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"I've been doing this 13 years already. At the beginning moment I was inspired by sneaker culture. At that time I felt like I became too far from street. I was looking for how to come back to street. Then I hit the sneaker. And I made a phone call to Nike. They gave me a very proper answer: 'Thank you very much, Mr. Yamamoto, but we are going never to fashion, we are going only to sportswear.' Very nice answer: 'OK, thank you very much.' Then I called Adidas: 'Why don't you work with me because I am interested in the sneaker.' Instantly they said yes. And then, like after seven or eight years, Y-3 outfit became a little bit boring. Casual outfit. So I felt, this is not my job. We should stop or continue—we had an argument, inside company. But finally we arrived at continue—[but] if continue, we should do something more sport in spirit, because in the world there are so many people who are motorcycling, jogging, and their wear is very attractive even if they are using terrible color like neon yellow. Functionality. So I told my team of Y-3, 'Let's go back to sport.' This collection should be motion and action."

Reference and full collection: Style.com

SOLEMN - "Yin-Yang" S/S 2015 | Interview

When I think of avant-garde and minimalism, lately the brand that constantly comes up my mind is SOLEMN. Established in Taiwan in 2012, SOLEMN is the brand with strong influence of ancient Eastern cultures, whose designs carries strong messages. Created of the finest natural materials, the brand pays special attention on details, and focus on creating a perfect 'eye-catching' silhouette. By balancing the garment designs in monochrome color palette, SOLEMN is trying to make connection between the past and modern through an evolved society; generations of culture and history that is now autonomously part of Taiwan.

Today, as addition to regular blog presentation, I made a short interview with Enri Lu, the creative director of SOLEMN.

Let’s begin at your origins. Tell me something more about yourself? What initially drew you to fashion?
     Throughout my life, one concept I would always return to is the idea of existence and its following purpose. This thought had led me to try different mediums for self expressions including music, which eventually led me to fashion. What I see in fashion is a way of not merely expressing the self but also making your ideas into a substantial and influential piece of art. Although I quit fashion school midway, this off route has shown me much more about social standards and academic standards. It is then that I decided to start Solemn off as an experimentation to my abilities and see how it leads in the fashion industry.

Whole brand concept is highly based on Eastern culture. Can you tell me something more about brand image of SOLEMN?
     Solemn is a brand based in Taiwan, yet it is true our ideologies trace back to ancient eastern cultures and Chinese history. What I am trying to bring to the table is the evolved and passed generations of culture and history that is now autonomously part of Taiwan. Especially traditional mandarin characters and old proverbs of virtue morale are definitely worthy to note in the eastern branch of philosophy. These are also concepts that we incorporate in our designs to convey stories and promote understanding of this foreign island.

Not so long ago, your collection for SS15 has been released. What was the main inspiration for it? What is the message that the collection is carrying?
     Solemn's Spring Summer 2015 collection derives from the scriptures of the Tao-te Ching (or The Classic of the Virtuous Way) by Lao Tzu. From this classic text, we took the concept of "the way of the elements," an idea that describes maintaining the unity of all matters is the ultimate way to maintain virtue. In other words, excessiveness and insufficiency may both ruin the harmony of virtue, which is something I believe is occurring worldwide and needs to be understood. 

If you weren't into fashion designs, what else could you see yourself doing?

     I find great interest in astrology and analyzing how the existing cosmos correlate with planets, substances, and most important its effect of human beings. There is something about knowing what is much greater and vast than the existing planet we live on that I find very intriguing.

What are your plans for the future?

     I am still aspiring to express my ideologies and beliefs, especially those of Taiwanese culture through Solemn to a bigger audience.

And last... Describe your brand in 5 words.

     Solemn, unlimited, in all existence.

“All things leave behind them the Obscurity (out of
which they have come), and go forward to embrace the
Brightness (into which they have emerged), while they are
harmonised by the Breath of Vacancy.”

Vibe Johansson - A/W 2015

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With each collection, Vibe Johansson is creating new challenges by developing the idea and her work on next level. Constant focus is on research of the female silhouette, challenging simplicity through innovation. Geometric shapes in the pattern making, combined with the best quality fabrics make for the understated elegance that Vibe Johansson adds to everyday wear.
For A/W 2015 collection, Johansson is playing with styles and materials - chiffon, lamb fur, wool, jersey, in asymmetrical shapes. The sculpted silhouette comes to the fore in essential pieces that can be wrapped and stylized in many ways. Color palette is basic with vibrant red touch.  

Reference: Vibe Johansson

10SEI0OTTO - F/W 2015-16

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10SEI0OTTO (DIECISEIZEROOTTO) was created by two individuals with a passion for leather jackets; Paolo Barelli and Tiziano Rillo, the former being an absolute expert in the leather industry, the second a creative and passionate designer particularly cut for leather outfits. The aim of the brand is to fulfill the needs of an evolved and ever changing market, focusing on high level standards, on high quality products as well as on new artisanal approaches.
With each new collection 10sei0otto is pushing the boundaries. For FW15-16 collection the brand introduces this season technical fabrics carefully selected such as oiled canvas, soy-cotton, and waterproof cotton. The easily wearable everyday collection gets its avant-garde twist. Mixture of elegance and informal style with timeless glow.

"An avant-garde primitivism, the infinite pursuit of primary values."

Reference: 10sei0otto, Modestnobility

NEO - 01

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I always get extremely happy when out of nowhere I find an amazing designer name from my country - Serbia. This time we talk about young and talented Nevena Ivanović, designer of NEO.
After finishing her studies at Mod'Art International Belgrade (profile: fashion designer), Nevena started her own label that aims to connect traditional and modern elements, as well as, style that can fit both, men and women.
NEO is also name of Nevena's graduate collection, inspired by African tribes and status of women in contemporary society and their equality with men. Also, perfect balance is the key of this collection; traditional style accessories combined with modern cuts and materials.

Reference: NJaL

VLADES - A/W 2015

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From the darker side of avant-garde comes VLADES with new collection for F/W 2015. This Korean brand is known by its perfect slim silhouette and tailoring in order to show fine details and create wearability using the perfect material for each piece. VLADES work started in destroying existing things and recasting them. Today Moo-Yeol Choi is known by creating new, unique looks for the future. To give strength and protection to sensitive and vulnerable souls. Clothing that can act like modern day armor for the wearer.

Reference and full collection: Vlades, StealthProjekt

Titania Inglis - A/W 2015

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Titania Inglis created stunning and clean collection for upcoming season. This NY based designer combined various material and styles with nice layering of gowns, jackets and furry vests that exemplify luxury and confidence of the looks. The designer made perfect balance in combination of nature and geometry, as well as, in combination of fabrics and feminine cuts, that shows the strengths of the woman who wears it. The color palette fits the style - equally minimal and elegant.

Reference: Titania Inglis