Devoa - A/W 2013

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As a former athlete and medical instructor, Daisuke Nishida grew interested in anatomy and kinetics, sparking the desire to create garments using the human body’s form and movement as the basis for design. That's why, for the season A/W 2013, the designer wanted to continue his research from past collections and simply create better versions of his favorite anatomical themes. As usual materials have been pushed into more and more high quality and unusual textures. Once again Japanese Washi paper and cashmere feature heavily as well as the finest cottons available. Colors used for this collection: Black, Navy and Dark Grey.


A New Cross - "EX UMBRA IN SOLEM" collection - S/S 2013

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“From the shadows into the Light” (EX UMBRA IN SOLEM) is name of A New Cross newest collection for upcoming Spring/Summer 2013. Ex Umbra in Solem uses perforated leathers that allow the light to pass through the garments, or some distressed knits that generate transparencies, some other pieces have zippers that allow the viewing of the construction of garments through the slits they create. For this season he also introduced various fetish objects to be worn as a jewelry collection.

References: A New Cross , STEALTHPROJEKT

Alexandre Plokhov - "ACOLYTE" - S/S 2013

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Inspiration for S/S 2013 collection, Alexandre Plokhov found in Russian Orthodox monks and described it as "journey from darkness to light", like a spring awakening. With palette in black, gray, and white—coal, ash, and alabaster, Plokhov called them—to represent the two divisions of Orthodox clergy: the Monastic (celibates who wear only black) and the Parochial (who wear white and are allowed to marry). In keeping with the spiritual theme, Plokhov said he'd placed an emphasis on pure fabrics. They were what really made the collection, from the corded cotton of coats and jackets to washed, vegetable-dyed leathers of a surpassing softness to open-weave Irish linen and a finale of homespun white cotton that had a godly gleam. Some tanks in a micro-modal synthetic as soft as cashmere injected a little lightness. Otherwise, the cloths were substantial enough to suggest all-year wear. "There is too much disposability," Plokhov declared. "I want things to last."

References: Alexandre Plokhov

O B S C U R - W O M E N S - S/S 2013

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In November, 2012 I made post about Obscur's collection for upcoming Spring/Summer 2013. Now this collection is fulfilled with womenswear. Enjoy!

References: O B S C U R

Alessandra Marchi - A/W 2012-13

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Alessandra Marchi is an Italian designer of a modest and reserved nature, but her clothing is fiercely creative and elegant. She strives to create a collection of quiet sophistication and her designs are beautiful in every way - to look at, to wear and to touch. Overtly elegant and sexy, Marchi’s designs are body conscious and her innovative patterns are intended to enhance the female form in all the right places. Marchi's signature is a use of mixed fabrications such as fur, leather, wool, linen, jersey, silk and cotton– sometimes all in one piece. Each garment and accessory in the collection is an exquisitely finished collage of texture. Marchi accepts nothing less than perfection in everything her family-owned fashion house produces.

References: Alessandra Marchi , Downtown shop

Byungmun Seo - "Study of the Hidden Recess of Mind" Collection - F/W 2013

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Envisioning a full metamorphosis within the unconscious, Byungmun Seo set the inherent dialectic in motion. This dialectic is resolved by the fusion of the unexpected and inexistent phenomena in the conscious and manifests in a resistance against the traditional and existing perspective of objects. They contemplated this hidden recess of the mind in freedom and ventured to liberate the mind of preconceived ideas, to release all objects from their customary association, and to revitalize the poetic imagery.
They pursue to develop this imagery into the construction of garment. The construction will be led by a single concept where a new silhouette is created by the spatial mating of both two-dimensional and three-dimensional objects. This also brings an aspect where such playing of shapes in construction refuses our initial perception of them and gives the objects a new meaning.

References: Byungmun Seo

Thamanyah - Spring/Summer 2013

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Presentation of another great collection for upcoming season Spring/Summer 2013 by Thamanyah (Ahmed Abdelrahman).

manmade:NATURAL Fall/Winter 2013

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M.N's ethereal designs are inspired by the fusion of chinese and western culture, multiple expressions of technical, and practiced handcrafts from ever-evolving surroundings.
Fusing the chinese traditional artistic, understanding with western clothing history and painting, the collections introduce the designer's personal aesthetic in the world of fashion. Flowing volumes cutting, and spirit with fabrics, multi-printing and washing etc, in exquisite and carefully selected fabrics, characterize manmade:NATURAL’s spheres.
M.N is also a kind of Lab Fashion, rater an urge to exploiting technique to perfection, which is expressing reveals the true design behind the garments industry. Achieving a pure esthetic can be difficult as there are many elements to consider.

References: manmade:NATURAL , ThisHeartsOnFire

Isabel Benenato - A/W 2012-13

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Born in Naples, Isabel Benenato was inspired by her mother, a tailor by profession, from whom she inherited her love of fashion.Having honed her creative skills in a number of ateliers and fashion schools in London, Isabel launched her eponymous label, showcasing her unique and experimental style. She debuted at the White Inside exhibition in 2008, as a womenswear line. The positive feedback she received allowed the designer to further articulate her ideas and, with an A/W 2011-12 collection, also the launch of a menswear line, appeared at Wow in Milan and Tranoï of Paris. Benenato’s sophisticated and minimalist creations outlive seasonal trends thanks to a dedication to rich materials and an undivided love for Italian craftsmanship. Experimenting with volume and asymmetry, her valuable yarns and leather are hand processed and treated to give a unique feel and weight.
Newest collection for A/W 2012-13 conveys modern minimalism, the same as the colors: black, white and natural tones.  Isabel Benenato proposes all natural yarns: cashmere and silk, alpaca, yak and mohair interpreted in various forms and gauges. The garments are concrete and are free of any extra decoration. A mix of knit and leather that evolve harmoniously time after time with vigor.
References: Isabel Benenato

obèse.plein - S/S 2013

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Black Rat - Pre-collection, "Mutiny"

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Black Rat is an urban​​​​​​​​​​ label which serves you dark, tailored​​​​​​​​​​​​ and raw​​​​​​​​​​ clothing inspired by the underground culture of Norway. The Rats main focus is on supreme wool qualities and perfect fitting. Most products are hand made in their atelier in Oslo. Lead designer is Siri Sveen Haaland.
The collection "Mutiny" is made to fit the Norwegian climate and style. Long silhouettes and iconic cuttings. High-end wool is the key fabric and leather sets the details.

References: Black Rat

Irina Dzhus - A/W 2012-13

DZHUS conceptual wear brand was founded in 2010 by a young Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus. The brand’s design concept is based on interaction and transformation of construction modules in order to create new aesthetics of the form – avant-garde and virtually archetypical at the same time, categoric but variable.
An A/W 2012-13 collection, Technogenesis is about regeneration of the anthropogenic civilisation's destructive priorities into a virtually new transmarginal existence - an image of the 'postapocalyptic archangel', as the quintessence of restructing and modification of consumeristic society's value categories in order to create the postutilitarian aesthetics. The idea of diverse use of prototype design modules has incarnated in transformer garments. Traditional textiles are combined with industrial materials. Monochrome colouring accentuates structural design of the items.

References: NJaL

MUNSOO KWON - A/W 2012-13

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After cutting his teeth under the tutelage of such names as Robert Geller, Helmut Lang, Thom Browne, and culminating with 5 seasons as a designer at Andrew Buckler, MUNSOO KWON has launched his very first collection for Fall/Winter 2012, in New York.
MUNSOO KWON attempts to steer clear of the traditional saturated menswear market, and build his designs based on neatly tailored modern silhouettes that are practical; yet maintain his own distinctive design. His aesthetic is faithful to proportions and carefully designed for an impeccable fit, while still using his unique detailing. Rather than overtly branding his pieces, MUNSOO KWON uses his signature split-open details on the back and special pockets on shirts to create a coherent brand representation.

References:  MUNSOO KWON