Martinez Lierah - A/W 2012-13

Daniel Lierah and Arturo Martinez established their label in 2010, Paris. Their collection for A/W 2012-13 finds inspiration in the idea of a memory that is dissolving and its consequences in the human mind. As well,  label's designers Daniel Lierah and Arturo Martinez were influenced  by the work of Toshio Shibata and Daniel Libeskind. So this collection is search for a balance between architectural shapes, straight lines and fluidity.

References: Lierah Martinez

SILENT by Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2013 Collection

Croatian born designer Damir Doma grew up in Germany and studied fashion in Munich and Berlin where he graduated in 2004. The young designer then went to Antwerp, working in the studios of Raf Simons and Dirk Schoenberger. It was the tuition of Simons in particular that broadened and shaped Doma's perception of the fashion and the arts. In 2006 Doma launched his own label and in July 2007 he debuted at Paris fashion week. He has carved a strong and recognizable image through the use of avant-garde silhouettes with flowing volumes, layers, soft tailoring and exquisite, carefully selected fabrics such as raw cotton, cashmere and washed leather.
The whole SILENT S/S 2013 collection by it's colors, garments, accessories and other details is harmoniously linked by a sense of uniform and an obsessive interplay between shadow and light. Design clearly refer to the military clothing and garments offer multiple expressions of identity containing elements of androgyny. Apart from all that, the designs still follow the same soft lines and fluidity that the SILENT line has made its signature.

References: Damir Doma

DEVOA - S/S 2013

DEVOA constructs of pattern toward movement of skin, muscle, and frame for an action. Human body keeps evolving and degenerating which are one and invisible as the age go by. DEVOA interprets clothing based on hypothesis and the theory of evolution.

References: DEVOA, StealthProjekt

SCHAAF – Don’t Tell The World That We Know – SS/AW 2012

MIRIAM SCHAAF is young fashion designer based in Munich, Germany and name behind label SCHAAF. Finished studies of fashion design, AMD, academy for fashion and design in Munich.  She started her own brand under same name in 2008. SCHAAF is divided into three continuous sub collections:
1.) Image Collection (released once a year for summer. It’s defined by clear structures which grant various possibilities of combination due to excentric Design somewhere in between avantgarde and elegance.)
2.) Online Store Collection (made exclusively for eCommerce and a small number of shops.)
3.) I REALLY DON’T KNOW Series (also sold through online store, as well as in Munich shops. The phrase symbolizes an inner conflict for a whole generation. It’s lack of orientation in a world of stimulus satiation.)

For the SS/AW Collection 2012, SCHAAF has created five protagonists for a fictitious apocalyptical film: the Soldier, the Escapee, the Dandy, the Saint, and the Mutant. These five figures live in a menacing environment, but their clothing provides them with the possibilities of defending and protecting themselves. Each character has a double persona: it can be either authentic and vulnerable, or dangerous and malicious. In this way, ten outfits in both light and dark shades have been developed. The materials used are cotton, leather, jersey, silk, and nylon.

References: SCHAAF

Pirosmani by Jenya Malygina - "Magus" A/W 2012-13

Pirosmani is one of the most striking and enigmatic brand of St. Petersburg. Style of Pirosmani is complex of asymmetrical shapes, graceful draperies, free cuts from Eastern Europe. Eugene Malygina, director and designer of fashion house Pirosmani, graduated at the St. Petersburg Art and Industrial Academy. While still a student, Eugene receives an invitation from the Moscow Fashion Week show for her debut collection. After graduating, she began to work on regular collections. Since 2004, fashion house Pirosmani regularly demonstrates seasonal collections of fashion week in St. Petersburg, as well as the Russian Fashion Week.

Hat, boots, dresses, coats... "Magus" is name of new collection for A/W 2012-13 inspired by the classic of John Fowles. By renouncing the color and mixing different shades of gray (gray sand, asphalt-gray, dirty-gray, gray, and bog-muted gray) designer focuses on the complex interaction of the architectonics cut and texture. From the constant mixing of multiple components of sensory perception: a thin, slightly rough silk, smooth and cool skin, soft "details" are not really visualy presented, so whole concept is giving mystical and phantom touch.

References: Pirosmani, Depesha

Complex Geometries - The Night - A/W 2012

Clayton Evans, the self-taught designer  and creator of Complex Geometries started this label in 2005. He believes strongly in style before fashion and the interaction between a garment and its wearer, so his designs are exactly like that - free flowing, liberal, made from soft fabrics, which he twists, turns, flips and loops.  Most pieces in his collections gives wearer the freedom of creating his/her own style and to express own personality and creativity.

References: Complex Geometries, Dossier

Bobkova. - Fall/Winter 12/13

Kristina Bobkova has graduated from The Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design. In the age of 23 she has founded her own line of clothes under Bobkova trademark. Trend knitwear with skew cut made Kristina recognizable among other ukrainian designers. Since 1998 trademark Bobkova has been a permament member of Ukrainian Fashion Week with pret-a-porte collections.

Fall/Winter 2012-13 collection details:

Inspiration:
Puzzle (tangle), the complex intertwining of nature and architecture, 3D-effect.
Assortment:
Pants, skirts, jackets, knitwear - pullovers, sweaters, tops, jackets, dresses.
Cut:
Complex, square, with offsets. 3D-parts and complicated plexus, which give the volume and complex shape.
Materials:
Cashmere, wool, cotton and blended knitted fabrics. Combine up to five materials in the one model.
Color:
Black, gray, dark blue, dark brown.
Shoes:
Designer’s shoes with complicated cut.. Clogs, shoes, shoes and slippers.
Accessories:
Designer’s jewelry and bracelets in the form of puzzles and Tangle.

References: Bobkova.

Forme 3’3204322896 (Forme d’expression) - S/S 2012

Korean designer, Koeun Park, after years of experience working in fields of fashion, she launched her own line, Forme 3’3204322896, in pursuit of a more personal approach to design. The name Forme 3’3204322896, pronounced “Forme d’expression” is created by decoding numeric orders that make up the “Helvetica-Fraction” font. Like the clothing it self, it represents conversion and individuality. Park’s philosophy is to create different forms of human expression through the garments that are not just fashion items but clothes that are closer to one’s soul. Her clothing is organic and focuses on fabrics and textures in monochromatic and earthy tones. 

References:
Koeun Park
TheMagazine
Downtown Shop

Uma Wang - F/W 2012

Uma Wang designed for Chinese labels for 10 years, where she learned knitting and developed her own style. At 2005, Wang launched her label and gained many positive comments for her work. Not long after that she has become a leader in Chinese fashion industry.
In current collection for F/W 2012, Wang once more choose to cover face of her model so all attention goes for designs. Combination of east and west and knit and draped clothes with asymmetric cuts, Wang combines with dark and dusty shades.

References: Uma Wang

THAMANYAH - A/W 12/13 - Look Book

Thamanyah, number eight (8) in Arabic, is the brand of young Middle Eastern designer, Ahmed Abdelrahman. His Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Collection is based on a modern reinterpretation of the traditional male garment of the Emirates, namely the Kandona. Colours in this collection are dark in the main with a contrasting sandy tones and the stark white cotton shirts.

RAD by Rad Hourani - Fall 2012 (#5) - RTW

Rad Hourani's fall/winter 2012 collection (#5) is study of the color green which stands for nature and forest.  As in previous collections, as well in this one, Rad stayed loyal to black color as dominant one and mixed it with pale olive and rich green shades. Because of the whole concept, materials, shapes, silhouettes and colors that are used, collection looks like military. Look of the models that is used is androgynous, to present this collection in it's better light as unisex.

Lui Hon - Whispering Roots - A/W 12

Born in Malaysia, Lui Hon graduated with Honours in Fashion Design at RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia. Believing that fashion should be timeless and functional, his first label was the collaborative Von where Lui put his theory into practice.
His structurally strong, technically faultless and textually intriguing designs led to Lui being a popular contestant in the inaugural Project Runway Australia.
Project Runway's Henry Roth took Lui's portfolio to iconic designer, Helmut Lang, encouraging the birth of the label, Lui Hon.

 Credit: http://luihon.com/

InAisce - F/W 12/13

Shaved and tattooed head with beard, you are right... That is Jona, designer behind label InAisce (pronounced “in-ask-ee”). Born in 1983 in the mountains of Colorado, designs in an old Brooklyn factory, wears his own designs and is inspired by nature in all her wild and pristine forms. InAisce is designed for everyday wear, for both, males and females. Over the last decade, Jona has lived and worked in a number of countries, from Italy to Indonesia, but his connection to Japan is surely the strongest. “I fell in love,” he said of the relationship he has developed with the country. Therefore how he explains the "In" in his brand name was "in Japan".
His designs are pragmatic, play of presence and absence of light, nature, matter, absorption, geometry, pattern,technique innovation and minimalism.