SHNB [ShiNoBi] - Collection 2013

A covert agent or mercenary in feudal Japan who was specialized in unorthodox warfare was known under name Shinobi (ninja). Also known for their great skills and simple, plain and lightweight clothing they have inspired two artists and fashion designers, Mike and Julia Zubik. In 2010 Russian designers created brand under name SHNB [ShiNoBi]. I made small interview with Mike and Julia on the occasion of the presentation of their new collection for 2013.

1. Can you tell us a bit about your background, how did the label “SHNB” originate?

Before creating a brand Julia and me performed in expressive live paintings. At some point we came with an idea of creating a theatrical costume show. We started developing the idea and were so happy with the result that decided to move on and do it for living. That’s how our brand was created along with the first clothes prototypes.     

2. How did you come up with the idea to combine something Asian, simple and minimalistic with futuristic details?

I used to be a sci-fi concept artist and it influences everything I've been doing. Asian culture provides an immense inspiration for the concept artists. We work hard, growing up constantly, but Asian concepts with futuristic details are still the fundamentals of our style.  --- continue

Black Rat - "Mutiny" A/W 2013

"Mutiny" consits of 12 outfits. 6 menswear + 6 womenswear. The collection is inspired by the travelling sailor who has life experience built on hard weather and mutinies. The expression is part classic, part androgynous. The ground thought behind the concept of Black Rat - Norwegian underground music - sets the relaxed silhouette. This collection awarded Black Rat to become the newcomer of the year on Oslo Fashion Week, Februrary 2013. All photos are from the exhibition on the fantastic Astrup Fearnley Museum. The art pieces are by Matthew Barney.

References: NJaL

Misomber Nuan - "RAISE THE LIGHT" self#VI - A/W 2013

"WHEN THE DARKNESS IS NO LONGER ENOUGH FOR YOU, YOU WILL KNOW IT IS TIME."

Following his own style, Misomber Nuan again done perfect collection. Under name "Self VI" designer is reflecting himself into his own work. Layered collection filled with hooded coats, jackets, wrapped collars, wade pants mainly in black color with few exceptions done in white and grey.

“WHEN I WAS SMALL, I IMAGINED MYSELF BEING AT THAT PLACE QUITE OFTEN.”

Full collection: Misomber Nuan

Barbara í Gongini - A/W 2013

Lots of layer, lots of details, mix of cyberpunk and apocalyptic themes, once more Barbara í Gongini is taking breath away. Collection for A/W 2013 that was presented on Copenhagen Fashion Week was completely different character than what you usually see during shows.  Asymmetrical cuts, different lengths, combination of leather, cotton and knits are primary presented in black color with adding of some grey and white.

References: Barbara í Gongini , Fashionising

ROAD - S/S 2013

David Gevorkov (Давид Геворков) is name of founder and chief designer of conceptual clothing brand "ROAD". Also he is one of the founders of the famous trio FRESH ART, which for 10 years hit the audience with their haute couture collections. The clothing brand ROAD is present stage in David's try as an independent designer. The first collection that was presented on Paris Fashion Week has been purchased by magazine L'eclaireur, the first concept store in the world, which since 1980 is a leader in the world of avant-garde fashion. And here is the presentation for upcoming Spring/Summer 2013.

Full collection - MALE
Full collection - FEMALE

Elliott Evan - “NEVER FOREVER” collection - A/W 2013

Elliott Evan made his New York Fashion week debut with the presentation of his collection under name "Never Forever" for Fall/Winter 2013. Elliott’s new collection is highly focus on male form and silhouette.  Full of carefully handcrafted drapery and fabrications with focus on high collars, the collection induces the feeling of forever, yet also knowing this will not last; the shapes, the fabrications – are sometimes undefined which is what makes Elliott Evan.

References: Elliott Evan

Whatever - "Grace" S/S 2013

WHATEVER is Ukrainian-Russian label that was launched in July 2010 with first cooperation of designer Alexandra Burzum and art-director Sheina Miretskaya – “Intro” collection and promo video with participation of Ukrainian leaders of fashion and art. In creation of collections there are using only natural fabrics and fibers - wool, cotton, silk, natural strain of which emphasizes the style of models. WHATEVER is the conceptual niche label for people who are free from fashionable clichés and stereotypes of society. Designer focuses in his work on concept of clothing not represented on local markets. Most of models are unisex.

References: WHATEVER

Boris Bidjan Saberi - A/W 2013-14

During Mens Fashion Week in Paris at the Garage Turenne, Boris Bidjan Saberi presented his A/W 2013-14 collection. Saberi´s new collection appears with strict military aesthetic in sharp lines with black rolled down beanies and backpacks as main detail.  The whole look contains roughness and at the same time it's refined, with mixed fabrics and articulated cuts.

Edie Karimova - "Black Marble" capsule collection 2013

Edie is young fashion designer and stylist based in Kiev, Ukraine. The concept of her brand – a human self-harmony. Edie’s clothes speak about the way on how to emphasize the individuality and creative outlook on life. Edie creates clothes for young, confident people with good taste and sense of style. In the autumn of 2012, Edie introduced capsule collection "Black Marble". For that used hand-dyeing and perforating of leather. The combination of colors are black and grey.

References: Edie Karimova

Rick Owens - "Plinth" collection - A/W 2013-14

Rick Owens never stopped to amaze us. It is the same with his new collection presented not so long ago on Paris fashion week under the name "Plinth". The whole collection for Fall/Winter 2013-14 has a touch of old military style. Knee-length oversize coats with A-line silhouette and large sleeves, slim pants, oversize hair style, combination of leather and fur, and boots with many laces and bottom that reminds of plinth. Owens said, “The only thing I ever want to do is a moment of madness and fun, and volume does that. I don’t really do a lot of details. I play with shapes more”. This collection is, for sure, strong presentation of man on plinth.

References: Fashionising

Julius - [ vandalism; ] - S/S 2013

Vandalism - ruthless destruction or spoiling of anything beautiful or venerable. Julius? Yes. Something different? For sure yes. This collection is something what most people would say it doesn't fit with Tetsuo's usual work. Street and style under same name. Julius made a bit of futuristic/goth/corporate mix that nicely match. Here is the preview of spring/summer 2013 collection, so take a look.